FAQ

When we were trying to coin a term to describe our now industry-recognized jewellery process, “Cast-Not-Set” encompassed the broad-brush-strokes of what it is we do. Follow us for a moment—the best analogy to describe Cast-Not-Set is thinking about cookie dough. 

A meticulous step-by-step process involving plaster molds, wax, gold and stones—much like a recipe for a very involved, luxurious cookie—Cast-Not-Set means that we pour molten gold in with stones in a cast to seal them in place. Akin to chocolate chips suspended in dough, our stones might move a smidge here and there as they’re engulfed by gold—encouraging subtle but lovely variation between each piece (if you’re curious, our Constellation and Confetti rings are all made through this convention-bending technique).

Over time, we’ve pushed the boundaries of that Cast-Not-Set process (or, to keep on with our analogy, making cookies) to craft more elaborate, surface-mounted pieces like our Encrusted Skull rings or Padlock necklaces (think—decorating gingerbread houses with gumdrops and sprinkles).

So while we can guarantee there will be nuance between each Cast-Not-Set object, we can also promise the integrity of your jewellery’s design won’t stray far from what you see on our site.

We usually don’t pick favorites, but when it comes to metals, recycled 18K yellow gold and recycled 20K rose gold are the ones. These two metals are the most resource-effective for our process and we can ensure the highest quality cast objects when using them. White gold and platinum don’t flow well in our casting process. But don’t fret—we have no doubt you’ll be able to rock either of our studio-metals with whatever your heart desires.

Sapphires, diamonds, and rubies are our studio-stones. If you’ve perused our site, you’ve seen them—they’re gorgeous! Above all else, they’re strong. We do not work with turquoise, opal, or any other soft semi-precious stones—they can’t withstand our renegade Cast-Not-Set process.

Sapphires and rubies are the workhorses of the gemstone world—tough, dependable, and built to last. At a 9 on the Mohs scale, they’re second only to diamonds in hardness, meaning they can handle everyday wear with ease. But while they’re scratch-resistant, they’re not invincible. Repeated run-ins with hard surfaces (think: dumbbells, rock faces, or the bottom of a tool kit) can take a toll over time. A little mindful wear goes a long way—treat them right, and they’ll stay brilliant for a lifetime. More care tips [here].

It’s actually a signature of our Cast-Not-Set style! Neither a defect nor a covered stone, we lovingly refer to this characteristic sprue mark as the “tummy button” of our rings. This mark is a result of the gold’s entry into the ring—evidence of their wholly unique making.

We promise the stones are there, but they may have shifted, sank, or been covered with gold. This is a natural, celebrated result of our renegade Cast-Not-Set process. There’s something quite special about not having complete control over the materials we use and the act of them converging. Like a secret only you know, get lost in the magic of it all—the idea that under the surface, there are still things that sparkle.

Oh, that little ridge? That’s part of the magic! Some of our rings—like Confetti, Celeste, and Grain—form this delicate edge as they take shape, and we love it so much, we let it stay. It’s a tiny whisper of the crafting process, a reminder that beauty is often found in the organic, the intentional, and the delightfully imperfect.

That’s right—all pendants and necklaces are sold with recycled 18k yellow gold or recycled 18k rose gold chains and S-hook catches. If you desire a longer or shorter chain than what’s listed in our product descriptions—or a different hook catch—let us know when you place your order. But please note, additional fees apply.

It would be our absolute pleasure. If you’re looking for something specific, please reach out to enquiries@pollywales.com to get the ball rolling.

The short answer is no, we cannot incorporate metal from a vintage jewellery piece directly into your new Polly Wales piece. We’ll spare you the boring technical stuff, but it’s difficult to verify the quality of the gold in vintage pieces—we wouldn’t want any unrefined mystery metals to degrade the structural integrity of your special piece. With that being said—in some cases, we can offer a credit for gold based on weight which can be applied to your order. But alas, we can’t physically incorporate that refined gold into our Cast-Not-Set process.

We adore working on custom pieces with heirloom stones, but the feasibility of this feat depends on the desired object style and the condition and size of the stones you provide. All stones will need to be inspected in person by our Gemologist to assess their quality, size, color, and cut. If you’ve been mulling this idea over, contact us at enquries@pollywales.com to chat through what’s possible.

We’ve worked with many customers in the past who have supplied their own stones. Our first line of business is to ensure that the stones are high-grade, quality cuts, and in proper condition to work with our designs. All stones will need to be inspected in person by our Gemologist before we’re able to say for sure. If you have GIA paperwork for your stone, please arrange to have it sent to our workshop—along with the stone—for review. If you’re eager to hear more, reach out to us at enquiries@pollywales.com. 

Ah, an age-old question. Take it from us: Go to a reputable jeweller and have them size your finger with our Polly Wales sizers. If you use a plastic set, a printable sizer, or other means of measuring, you risk ending up with the wrong sized Polly Wales ring. To be extra sure, we also recommend that you have your fingers measured a few different times to get an average (because if you have worn rings before, you know that your fingers can change size with the heat or time of day). Check out our sizing guide for more help—or schedule a video appointment with us for a walk-through of how to size yourself. We’ve got you.

Mistakes mean you’re human. If you order the wrong size and it is a style that can be resized, we will do so for a fee, plus shipping. Upon delivery, if you discover that your ring is too big or small, reach out to us immediately so we can devise a plan.

Our pieces are designed to be lived in and loved, but like all precious things, they should be treated with care. We recommend removing your jewellery before tending to your garden, developing a roll of film, lifting weights, and all other activities that might be too rough on your piece.

It’s relatively simple. We suggest you soak your jewellery in warm soapy water for a few minutes before rubbing it gently with a soft toothbrush. This should remove any buildup of dirt without being too abrasive or damaging the texture of the gold. If you want more detailed care instructions, drop us a line.

We highly recommend insuring your jewellery, as doing so can save you the heartache of costly repair fees or replacement costs (like if it happened to mangle while you were making a smoothie or accidentally left it on the sink of a public restroom, for example). There are plenty of loss or damage insurance coverage options for your piece—some of which are low-cost or deductible-free. As a start, we recommend reaching out to your homeowners, renters, or automobile insurance provider; often, they will be able to add a Valuable Personal Property rider to your policy. If you happen to have a larger collection or want more specific coverage, we suggest exploring a policy with Jeweler’s Mutual.

Luckily, proof of purchase in the form of an invoice or receipt is often enough to satisfy the requirements of your insurance provider. We recommend checking with your agent to find out what specific documentation they need for your policy—and if they require a valuation or appraisal, we’ll happily create one for you.

Please note, for out-of-production styles or pieces with out-of-date pricing, there is a $200 fee associated with creating a new valuation.

Sh*t happens. And when it does, we’ll be here for you. Reach out to us and we’ll provide you with an RA number along with instructions for sending your piece back to us. Once received, our workshop team will assess the needs of your piece and provide an assessment, price estimate, and approval to proceed—when applicable—for repair.

While turnaround times vary depending on the complexity of the repair and the extent of the damage, we generally estimate two to four weeks from the date we receive your piece. If we believe your repair will take longer, we’ll be straight with you. It’s what good friends do.

We kindly request that you allow our highly-skilled team to perform repairs, resizings, and other modifications on our pieces—we know those objects inside and out. Should another jeweller perform work on your Polly Wales piece, all future responsibility and repair requests are null.

We know what that butterfly-inducing feeling is like, waiting for something you’re super excited for. So there’s never any guessing when you’ll have your Polly Wales piece in hand: in-stock pieces are available to ship within a few days (unless otherwise noted). Made-to-order pieces are usually turned around in eight to ten weeks. We may need to source special stones for your order in rare cases, which can lengthen lead times. If you need a piece sooner or have a firm delivery date (like for a wedding or engagement), just let us know as soon as possible.

US shipments are sent signature-required and are fully insured via UPS with two-day service. And if you really can’t wait, we offer next-day air level service upon request. Our international shipments are sent via DHL international express, which generally takes two days to a week depending on your location. Transit time does not include time spent in customs, which varies from country to country, and is entirely out of our control. You best believe we put all of the good vibes out into the universe to get it to you as quickly as possible.

As the old adage goes, there are only two things in life that are certain: Death and taxes. We ​​unfortunately don’t pay customs fees (nor can we estimate their cost)—any duties and taxes due to your local jurisdiction are up to you to cover.